In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt pleaded for the protection of the Grand Canyon, saying,
“Leave it as it is. You can not improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man can only mar it. What you can do is to keep it for your children, your children’s children, and for all who come after you, as one of the great sights which every American if he can travel at all should see.”
On January 11, 1908, the canyon was designated a national monument.
One day, I knew that I wanted to behold this great American wonder; it was one of those before-I-die things, though with no exact timeline for its fulfillment. And yet, it has come so soon in my lifetime! Part of me always assumed I’d be old when I’d stand at the edge and look down into its vast canyons, hoping for a glimpse of the Colorado River below; yet, I’m still surprised by each blessing our digital nomad journey brings. Visiting at this point in our lives, in our youth and athletic peak, used to walking an insane number of miles, granted us the opportunity to not just stand on the Grand Canyon’s edge but to walk its depths.
However, Tim and I knew that our rim-to-rim hike, from the North Rim, through the bottom and across the Colorado, and back up the South Rim, would be a HUGE challenge. So, before taking that journey, we wanted to take in the Grand Canyon’s splendor in a casual stress-free way. To do that, we visited the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. Here’s how it went:
North Rim
Tim and I made the 1.5-hour drive from Kanab to the North Rim the weekend before our hike, so that we could appreciate the wonder and beauty of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The drive through the Kaibab National Forest is a beautiful drive, but we enjoyed it double this time – we borrowed Matthew’s Miata, and driving with the top down on a sunny day just makes a scenic drive extra stunning.
Once inside the park, the main road takes you to the Lodge where we wandered through the Visitor Center. Tim and I enjoy stopping at visitor centers because we find that we often appreciate a place more if we know what we’re looking at or the history behind it – thanks, Jean, for this invaluable tip! From there, we got hiking.
Bright Angel Point Trail
Just behind the North Rim Lodge, this short paved trail (0.5 miles roundtrip), though slightly steep, walks along the canyon’s edge, overlooking Cottonwood Canyon on the left. We tried to spot our rim-to-rim trail from here, but no luck – too many trees, cliffs, and boulders in the way. This was probably our least favorite of the overlooks, but Tim and I are all about doing and seeing as much as we can, and since it’s short, we couldn’t skip it.
Cape Royal
After staring open-mouthed over the edge of Bright Angel Point, we headed back to the car for more. From the Lodge, we headed back the way we came, then turned right off the main road onto Cape Royal Road and drove all the way to the end of the line.
Also short (0.8 miles roundtrip), the Cape Royal Trail is paved and an easy walk, taking visitors on top of Angels Window and to Cape Royal, which disappointingly is the viewpoint with the lowest elevation at 7865 feet. Despite this, the rock formations here are probably the most diverse, compared to the other viewpoints. Additionally, at the beginning of the trail is an outcrop that looks toward Angels Window; it was here that we stopped to eat our picnic, and though a bit crowded, it may have been my favorite spot.
Cliff Spring Trail
After Cape Royal, we turned back on the Cape Royal Road, headed for the entrance, and made several stops along the way. The first was the Cliff Spring Trail. This one is easy to miss – the parking just looks like a viewpoint for Angels Window. But across the road is a trailhead that takes hikers into the trees.
Though this trail takes you away from the grandeur of the main canyon, it’s a pretty and secluded walk. It also gave us our first taste of what it would be like inside the Grand Canyon on the rim-to-rim, though at a much easier incline and pace.
This trail is also about 0.8 miles roundtrip, has a slight downhill, and is more rugged than the park’s other short trails (because it isn’t paved). Along the way, we spotted a Native American granary, where they had bricked up a space beneath a rock to store and preserve their grain throughout the year. And as we approached the cliff spring, we spotted a small herd of mule deer (these look like regular deer but with big ears). The trail map says this path ends at the chest-high boulder under the rock overhang, but Tim and I kept going, following a worn path over gravel slopes, past steep drop-offs, up small rock scrambles, and around thick vegetation. We hiked until the path rose steeply upward and then returned to the car.
dadirri (n) {Australian Aboriginal}: a deep, spiritual act of reflective and respectful listening or communion with life
It was a beautiful hike, if a bit anxiety-inducing at times, and though we weren’t in the Grand Canyon proper, it was exciting to see the rock rise above us, red and white striped in the sunlight, and completely immersed in nature away from all people.
Walhalla Overlook
Our next stop was Walhalla Overlook, and though it wasn’t too different from Cape Royal (though just a bit higher at 7998 feet), our mouths were still dropping open with awe. What increased our awe here, however, is what we learned on the informational sign. Apparently, a group of Native Americans used to live at the bottom of the canyon during the winter – archeological evidence of a farming settlement was found on the Unkar Delta and Colorado River, whose waters can be seen far far below – and then they’d climb to the top in late spring to spend the summer months on the top of the canyon where it was cooler. Across the road from the overlook parking is a tiny trail (400 feet) to the Walhalla Glades Pueblo, the remains of the rim settlement. Tim and I missed this, but just knowing this information blew our minds.
Roosevelt Point
At 8470 feet, this was the most stunning viewpoint yet. You can’t see much from the parking lot, but if you head down the trail (marked by a small sign at the northern edge), you can get to what may be the best lookout in the park. The map marks the trial as a 0.2-mile loop, but again, Tim and I diverted from the path and climbed out on a rock “peninsula” that jutted into the canyon. From here, we could see beyond to the South Rim, the flatlands on the other side stretching on forever. Looking down, the canyon descended, stair-stepping and sliding, and dropping off in layers of white, red, yellow, and brown. If I were a painter, this is where I’d set up my easel.
Tim and I had this spot to ourselves for most of our visit, which was unbelievable in itself – I was expecting crowds on a Sunday with beautiful weather. But by this time, about 4:30-5, it seemed as if people were already leaving. We didn’t mind a bit! 😅
Point Imperial
To get to Point Imperial, the highest point of the Grand Canyon at 8803 feet, you have to turn right at the Y intersection on the way back to the entrance. We were racing the weather at this point – even though the sky was blue at Roosevelt, by the time we parked at Point Imperial, ominous grey clouds were moving in.
Though it was definitely cool to look into the canyon from so high up, and to see so far across on the other side, spotting the helicopters that gave aerial tours, it wasn’t our favorite viewpoint. There seemed to be less variation in the color, texture, and shape of the rocks, which made the view a little less exciting.
We mostly beat the rain – it only sprinkled a little bit, barely worth putting the top back up on the Miata, but we did. We also spotted some turkeys on the way out, and though we’ve definitely seen them back in the Midwest, there’s always excitement in spotting wild animals. 😀
On the way back, we stopped at the Jacob Lake Inn, first to get gas (but it was too expensive so we waited until arriving in Kanab), then to go to the bathroom, and then to buy souvenirs (which was unplanned). The Inn has an extensive gift shop that features traditional Native American-made artwork. We’d been eyeing pieces at every gift shop we’ve visited up to this point but decided it was all overpriced (especially the stuff at Monument Valley!). Here, however, we found everything to be reasonable, and most things were signed by the artists, adding another layer of authenticity. So we caved and picked a few pieces to take home.
And then the day had one more spectacular sight in store for us: the sunset.
Tim and I were just blown away by our day-long experience of the Grand Canyon. We had beautiful weather, and this national landmark DEFINITELY lives up to its hype. If I lived in the area, I would go back again and again (part of me already does), and probably would never be less impressed than I was on this day.
Top Tips
- The North Rim often closes in the winter due to heavy snowfall. Roads are likely to become impassable. The lodge and food services only operate from May to mid-October. It is possible the whole North Rim park closes when the Lodge does, so be sure to check the website before planning a trip.
- Entrance to National Parks costs $35/vehicle and is valid for seven days. Alternatively, you can purchase an annual pass for $80 that grants entrance to all national parks, monuments, and sites for an entire year from the date of purchase.
- No cash is accepted at the park’s entrances; fees must be paid via credit or debit card.
North Rim mile count: 4.6 miles
North Rim elevation climb: 450 ft
Mile count so far: 34 miles
Elevation climb so far: 3,710 ft
Next stop: the Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim
The Logophile's Bookshelf 
One thought on “Visiting the Grand Canyon”
Comments are closed.